Wednesday, 12 June, 2019
After a full English breakfast of eggs, back bacon, sausage, beans, mushrooms, tomatoes, hash brown and a pot of coffee we headed downtown to walk the walls of the City of York.
The weather forecast was for cloudy and rain in the afternoon. We had a great morning slowly meandering around the City Walls. The City of York originated as a Roman City and the walls were created for protection.
We stopped for a coffee half way around and sat in one of the gate towers. This tower was rented out for families right up until 1957. It was the most complete of the towers with bastions, gate and a top floor. On a good day you could sit outside with your coffee and ‘guard’ the City.
It also had a garderobe. A garderobe is the equivalent to an “outhouse”. They look like an external chimney but they have a “drop zone”. The name comes from the French ”regarder” to look. Basically look out (watch out) below.
The walls are not complete all the way around the City. Some of the walls were destroyed and not reconstructed. However, we were able to connect the local roads to get back onto the next section of wall with the help of locals, who recognized that we were misplaced.
We finished our walk of the walls at Clifford’s Tower. The Tower is part of a Motte and Bailey castle. The defending army and population could retreat to the Bailey. As they held the higher ground they could protect themselves. They usually had sufficient foods for a short siege period. A sad part of the history of the tower was when the Jews of York were persecuted. March 16, 1190, one hundred fifty jews ‘escaped’ to the Clifford Tower, they were surrounded, the walls were set on fire, they were about to be tortured, possibly raped to prevent further persecution they committed suicide.
The City has lots of little alleyways, we sometimes got misplaced, but as I know the old City (from a past life) I was always able to find our way.
We had a large, late lunch in the Golden Fleece, which is reputed to be haunted by five ghosts. We kept moving tables because we could not find a level table the floors were all sloped.
We wandered about during the afternoon and through “the Shambles Area”. The Shambles street is so narrow the second storey of the house you could reach out and shake hands with your neighbour across the street. I used to love this street, unfortunately it was used to film Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter series. Almost half of the street has been taken over by Harry Potter wizard shops.
Because of our large and late lunch we popped into Marks & Sparks (Marks and Spencer’s) and bought some sandwiches to take back to our B&B.